I made two muslins today. The pattern is Butterick 5941. It's probably OOP but it's a simple unlined jacket, below the waist with a collar. It has a horizontal dart at the side seam at well as vertical darts in front and back. I tried making it about a year ago and was not happy with the results. It's a pattern I had a duplicate of so I decided to start over from scratch. Now that I've spent a considerable amount of time studying and learning fit, as I was trimming the pattern I immediately spotted a stumbling block. On what planet is this back and front pattern piece supposed to fit together??
A back armhole is supposed to be only about 1/2" longer than the front armhole! Even with the shaping of the front armhole there is almost a 2" difference. I took a tuck across the back and that did the trick. I made a FBA, wide and high round back adjustment but still need to add about 1/2" at the front armhole notch. I have solved the twisted sleeve problem I was having. Solved that myself as everybody's solution was to rotate the sleeve in the armhole. The problem was that my wide upper back was stealing fabric from my sleeve. Problem now solved. So far this is what I have. After some bust dart adjustment, I plan to cut my fashion fabric tomorrow.