Sunday, January 5, 2014

Bra making discovery

I've been fairly quiet for two reasons. One is I haven't felt like blogging and the other is because I am on another bra-making binge. I've sewn at least six bras with only one fitting. That is a complete bummer. If you don't already know, You have to nearly complete the bra before you can try it on. Of course by then it's too late to make alterations. I've used up a fair amount of supplies and I'm desperately in need. All is not lost. I've made an amazing discovery and I hope this discovery will help someone.

The main problem in bra making is finding the correct cup size and shape. Like ready-to-wear, bra pattern sizing is strictly up to the designer. The easiest part to fit on a bra is the band. If you have bras that you've made previously with ill-fitting cups don't fret. Below is my solution to having to sew a complete new bra each time you want to try a different pattern.

Retrieve a previously sewn bra

Cut the cups out of the bra

Be sure to leave at least 1/4" of fabric around the inside "frame"

Remove wires if added

Now you have your very own "bra frame!" Construct new cups and attach to 1/4" seam allowance of frame using 3.5 mm stitch size and reinsert wire (if needed).

Actually I only constructed one cup. From it I was able to determine how to alter the cup and where. Although my frame is from a partial band bra, I used it for a full band bra and it worked like a charm. It was the first time I had success with a new bra pattern without using the "Goldilocks" bra making formula. You know the one...this one's too big, this one's too small, this one's just right. If you ever get into bra making, file this tip away for future use! You can easily remove the cups for future uses.

I'll be back in the next couple of days with photos and reviews.


  1. Great tip! I'm surprised no one has thought of this before! I'm still hoping to start some bras!

  2. Wow! What a great idea! I hope you can get a few more that fit soon - it's frustrating and rewarding, this bra-sewing business!

  3. Great tip--My first 2014 sewing goal is to build a basics wardrobe of 8 - 10 pieces, then move on to making bras--hopefully by Spring. I will certainly file this away for future reference.

  4. This is brilliant! I'm in the midst of pattern tweaking as I write. I hope you find your fit next time. It can be so frustrating. Looking forward to your pictures.

  5. Brilliant tip! Thank you so much for sharing this! It made my day. I was afraid of making countless muslin and losing so much time in the process, this tip is awesome!

  6. Great tip, I was working toward a similar finding. Not having to create the frame for each test sew is a great idea. Thank you for sharing.