Saturday, November 27, 2010

Before the sewing starts - Simplicity 4273

My next project is going to be the jacket from Simplicity 4273. I cannot believe that I don't have a black jacket. This jacket will match the Painter Tape Pants I just made and since I had six yards of fabric, I think I should make a matching skirt as well.

The days are over for me to simply trim a pattern and sit down and sew it. Actually those days probably never existed. I start with a size 16 pattern as I am a devout believer in the Palmer/Alto method. Fit for Real People (FFRP) is the best thing that has ever happened to my sewing skills.

The first alteration I always make on any jacket or blouse that has sleeves is to make a wide back adjustment of 1". It is a very simple alteration but one that I cannot get a good fit without. I make the alteration by marking a line the length of the pattern. Next I cut the pattern apart, spread it 1" fill in with tissue, finally taping the entire alteration. Unlike as suggested in FFRP I use 3/4" tape because it is more readily available.

After the back alteration, I make a 1" full bust adjustment (FBA). While on must princess seam jackets I make the alteration on the front side piece, on this particular jacket I made the alteration on the front piece only. This will be a first time for me making a princess seam jacket that also incorporates a bust dart. I marked the pattern piece, slicing, spreading and filling the alteration in with tissue and tape.

The red mark to the left of the center front and below the waistline represents where my waist is. To have the pattern fit as intended I marked, slice and lengthened the pattern piece 1".

The remaining pieces of the body of the jacket all had to be lengthened 1" while the facing had to be lengthed 1 3/8". Finally I measure the sleeve circumference, armhole opening and sleeve cap.


  1. Fascinating-- great to see the photos that illustrate the alterations. I hear so much about Fit for Real People. I may have to ask for the book for Christmas.

  2. Nice Nice... Looking forward to the completed jacket.

  3. Nice pattern choice. I've been attracted to that pattern for quite some time. What fabric will you be making the jacket from and what color?

  4. Thanx soo much for doing this,seeing it really helps! "Fitting", always has me stumped.

  5. I think its wonderful when everyone shows their pattern alterations. It makes it so much easier for newbies and returnees to sewing understand what we are talking about. Can't wait to see your finished pieces! BTW, love the bangle in the pictures!

  6. Wow, thanks for the walk-through on your alterations!! I am so glad to have a sample to go to, I do better when I can SEE how it is done!

  7. I agree with Mz. Choize...I'm struggling with fitting patterns and love seeing actual pictures/step-by-step procedures like these. They really help!! Good luck on your jacket and can't wait to see it!

  8. Hi there!!! This is a great post, far beyond my sewing abilities but great to learn from.

    I'll be back to get stuck into all your previous posts I've missed, :D

    Could you email me, I need to ask you something,,

  9. this is very helpful. Thanks for explaining. I can't wait to see it completed♥