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Friday, April 26, 2013
Thursday, April 25, 2013
Wednesday, April 17, 2013
Monday, April 15, 2013
Two-Day Fitting Workshop
I've finally settled down from my two-day fitting workshop. I can't say that it was a total success but I'm trying to write this post as objectively as possible.
The workshop was from 10 am - 4 pm both Friday and Saturday. We were first measured with a method I'd never encountered before. Our high bust measurement was taken but the tape measure was not parallel to the floor in the back but rather draped down to the top of the bra band. It made my high bust measurement 2" more than what I normally used but I was okay with that. I was there to learn...right? Our full bust was taken as normal.
Next we tried on pre-made fitting shells to determine what size pattern we were to use to make our slopers. The pattern, (McCalls ) was included in the workshop fee. We trimmed and altered the pattern using the Palmer/Pletsch "pin-fitting" method. Finally we were told to start trimming a pattern of our choice to begin the alterations on it. When the question was asked how to use the "sloper" to determine the alterations on other patterns, everything for me started to go down hill.
We were told that the "sloper" had nothing to do with commercial patterns other than to show that we differed from a "fit model." WTF. I knew that. I had known it for years! I was totally deflated. You mean I'd done all that cutting and taping for nothing? She assured me it was not for naught. It had supposedly helped us become familiar with the Palmer/Pletsch "pin-fitting" method. I was already using the PP method and quite frankly was as versed as she was. I totally lost my focus and my interest in the workshop after being told there was no relationship between our "sloper" and commercial patterns.
On day two I decided to start the day with an open mind. We spent the day altering and "pin-fitting" our pattern. All the alterations were started from scratch. We did not use any of the alterations from the "sloper." Although we were told to bring fabric and sewing machines to be used for sewing our altered pattern, there was no time to sew. I guess we're left to our own devices to figure out if our alterations are correct.
On the upside, I did finally solve my back fitting problem. I usually say that if I can learn one thing in a workshop, I'd get my monies worth. In that way, I did get my monies worth. Maybe if I weren't already using the pin-fitting method I would have felt better about the whole experience. On the downside, if I didn't already have some knowledge of the pin-fitting method, I don't think I would have learned enough to do it on my own.
The real downside to the workshop is being told the "sloper" was useless as it relates to commercial patterns. I already knew that wasn't true but I posed the question to an accomplished designer who confirmed what I knew. If the same alterations are made to a commercial pattern that were made to the "sloper", the pattern should be a near perfect fit. It will also have the same amount of wearing ease that was intended by the designer. In that way, "pin-fitting" might not be needed!
This is absolutely my experience and my opinion on the workshop as it relates to fitting. Lately, in talking to some of my sewing friends I've wondered if they think I'm conceited or downright braggadocious. I may even sound that way in some of my blog posts, but rest assured it is none of that. What it is, is confidence! I've been a sewer for 46 years. If I were able to total all of my hours of sewing, studying sewing, and talking to people about sewing, I'm sure I'd have three or four PhD's in sewing. No, not bragging...just confident.
The workshop was from 10 am - 4 pm both Friday and Saturday. We were first measured with a method I'd never encountered before. Our high bust measurement was taken but the tape measure was not parallel to the floor in the back but rather draped down to the top of the bra band. It made my high bust measurement 2" more than what I normally used but I was okay with that. I was there to learn...right? Our full bust was taken as normal.
Next we tried on pre-made fitting shells to determine what size pattern we were to use to make our slopers. The pattern, (McCalls ) was included in the workshop fee. We trimmed and altered the pattern using the Palmer/Pletsch "pin-fitting" method. Finally we were told to start trimming a pattern of our choice to begin the alterations on it. When the question was asked how to use the "sloper" to determine the alterations on other patterns, everything for me started to go down hill.
We were told that the "sloper" had nothing to do with commercial patterns other than to show that we differed from a "fit model." WTF. I knew that. I had known it for years! I was totally deflated. You mean I'd done all that cutting and taping for nothing? She assured me it was not for naught. It had supposedly helped us become familiar with the Palmer/Pletsch "pin-fitting" method. I was already using the PP method and quite frankly was as versed as she was. I totally lost my focus and my interest in the workshop after being told there was no relationship between our "sloper" and commercial patterns.
On day two I decided to start the day with an open mind. We spent the day altering and "pin-fitting" our pattern. All the alterations were started from scratch. We did not use any of the alterations from the "sloper." Although we were told to bring fabric and sewing machines to be used for sewing our altered pattern, there was no time to sew. I guess we're left to our own devices to figure out if our alterations are correct.
On the upside, I did finally solve my back fitting problem. I usually say that if I can learn one thing in a workshop, I'd get my monies worth. In that way, I did get my monies worth. Maybe if I weren't already using the pin-fitting method I would have felt better about the whole experience. On the downside, if I didn't already have some knowledge of the pin-fitting method, I don't think I would have learned enough to do it on my own.
The real downside to the workshop is being told the "sloper" was useless as it relates to commercial patterns. I already knew that wasn't true but I posed the question to an accomplished designer who confirmed what I knew. If the same alterations are made to a commercial pattern that were made to the "sloper", the pattern should be a near perfect fit. It will also have the same amount of wearing ease that was intended by the designer. In that way, "pin-fitting" might not be needed!
This is absolutely my experience and my opinion on the workshop as it relates to fitting. Lately, in talking to some of my sewing friends I've wondered if they think I'm conceited or downright braggadocious. I may even sound that way in some of my blog posts, but rest assured it is none of that. What it is, is confidence! I've been a sewer for 46 years. If I were able to total all of my hours of sewing, studying sewing, and talking to people about sewing, I'm sure I'd have three or four PhD's in sewing. No, not bragging...just confident.
Wednesday, April 10, 2013
Sunday, April 7, 2013
This and That
I, like most anybody else that has watched this video, am enthralled with The Great British Sewing Bee.
Home sewers like you and I can relate to a reality sewing competition. Not only that, we can all feel a kinship with Ann Rowley who is so active on sewing social networking. I certainly hope to be able to watch upcoming episodes and I'm rooting for Ann.
There's not much sewing going on here. I do have a blouse in the works and a bra on my sewing table but my heart isn't in it."Why?," you might ask. The answer is because next weekend I will be attending a two-day
"Fit for Real People" workshop with Janet Dapson! Janet is a trained Palmer/Pletsch fitting expert. I'm waiting until after the workshop before starting any new projects so that I can apply any new techniques I learn. The class description says - "the first day of class focuses on making a sloper from the Learn-to-Fit pattern. Based on that sloper, you will make pattern alterations to a fashion pattern. On the second day, you will construct your garment, adjusting fit where necessary as you sew."
I am so excited. If I can learn just one thing I will have gotten my monies worth. The have two fitting issues -- my shoulders and my back. It might only be one issue -- the back shoulder width. Who knows? Hopefully this time next week the mystery will be solved. Wish me luck!
Home sewers like you and I can relate to a reality sewing competition. Not only that, we can all feel a kinship with Ann Rowley who is so active on sewing social networking. I certainly hope to be able to watch upcoming episodes and I'm rooting for Ann.
There's not much sewing going on here. I do have a blouse in the works and a bra on my sewing table but my heart isn't in it."Why?," you might ask. The answer is because next weekend I will be attending a two-day
"Fit for Real People" workshop with Janet Dapson! Janet is a trained Palmer/Pletsch fitting expert. I'm waiting until after the workshop before starting any new projects so that I can apply any new techniques I learn. The class description says - "the first day of class focuses on making a sloper from the Learn-to-Fit pattern. Based on that sloper, you will make pattern alterations to a fashion pattern. On the second day, you will construct your garment, adjusting fit where necessary as you sew."
I am so excited. If I can learn just one thing I will have gotten my monies worth. The have two fitting issues -- my shoulders and my back. It might only be one issue -- the back shoulder width. Who knows? Hopefully this time next week the mystery will be solved. Wish me luck!
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