My next project is going to be the jacket from Simplicity 4273. I cannot believe that I don't have a black jacket. This jacket will match the Painter Tape Pants I just made and since I had six yards of fabric, I think I should make a matching skirt as well.
The days are over for me to simply trim a pattern and sit down and sew it. Actually those days probably never existed. I start with a size 16 pattern as I am a devout believer in the Palmer/Alto method. Fit for Real People (FFRP) is the best thing that has ever happened to my sewing skills.
The first alteration I always make on any jacket or blouse that has sleeves is to make a wide back adjustment of 1". It is a very simple alteration but one that I cannot get a good fit without. I make the alteration by marking a line the length of the pattern. Next I cut the pattern apart, spread it 1" fill in with tissue, finally taping the entire alteration. Unlike as suggested in FFRP I use 3/4" tape because it is more readily available.
After the back alteration, I make a 1" full bust adjustment (FBA). While on must princess seam jackets I make the alteration on the front side piece, on this particular jacket I made the alteration on the front piece only. This will be a first time for me making a princess seam jacket that also incorporates a bust dart. I marked the pattern piece, slicing, spreading and filling the alteration in with tissue and tape.