Before the sewing starts - Simplicity 4273

My next project is going to be the jacket from Simplicity 4273. I cannot believe that I don't have a black jacket. This jacket will match the Painter Tape Pants I just made and since I had six yards of fabric, I think I should make a matching skirt as well.

The days are over for me to simply trim a pattern and sit down and sew it. Actually those days probably never existed. I start with a size 16 pattern as I am a devout believer in the Palmer/Alto method. Fit for Real People (FFRP) is the best thing that has ever happened to my sewing skills.

The first alteration I always make on any jacket or blouse that has sleeves is to make a wide back adjustment of 1". It is a very simple alteration but one that I cannot get a good fit without. I make the alteration by marking a line the length of the pattern. Next I cut the pattern apart, spread it 1" fill in with tissue, finally taping the entire alteration. Unlike as suggested in FFRP I use 3/4" tape because it is more readily available.

After the back alteration, I make a 1" full bust adjustment (FBA). While on must princess seam jackets I make the alteration on the front side piece, on this particular jacket I made the alteration on the front piece only. This will be a first time for me making a princess seam jacket that also incorporates a bust dart. I marked the pattern piece, slicing, spreading and filling the alteration in with tissue and tape.

The red mark to the left of the center front and below the waistline represents where my waist is. To have the pattern fit as intended I marked, slice and lengthened the pattern piece 1".

The remaining pieces of the body of the jacket all had to be lengthened 1" while the facing had to be lengthed 1 3/8". Finally I measure the sleeve circumference, armhole opening and sleeve cap.